RS Gold took steps that only he could take

　　He is the 43-year-old chef of Aziza in San Francisco, his arms decorated with tattoos that signify “strength” in Arabic, a son of Casablanca, Morocco, who works wonders with spices and preserved lemons, sous-vide and meat glue. Recipes Moroccan Pancakes (Beghrir) (October 5, 2011) Berber Skillet Bread (October 5, 2011) Moroccan Almond-Argan Butter (October 5, 2011) Enlarge This Image Jim Wilson/The New York Times Paula Wolfert's traditional take on Moroccan skillet bread with almond-argan butter.
　　She is a 73-year-old daughter of Brooklyn, an industrious ex-hippie and renowned culinary anthropologist in Sonoma, Calif., whose favorite kitchen tool is an unglazed clay pot. But for more than 40 years, both have been immersed in the flavors, aromas and techniques of the Moroccan kitchen. And now each has written an authoritative, enticing cookbook — from diametrically opposed perspectives.
　　Ms. Wolfert, the outsider, is the stickler for authenticity and tradition. “He has made this incredible jump,” Ms. Wolfert said of the food at Aziza. “But his food is not the Moroccan cooking I know. He took steps that only he could take.” Mr. Lahlou, the native son, is the activist for change and modernity. “We started from the same point in time in Morocco, but she looks backward, and I look forward,” he said.